Welcome

Welcome to my Cobra Replica build blog.
Please contact me if you would like to know more detail as i progress."CR3514@live.com.au"
Regards
Dave

Monday, September 30, 2013

Oil Cooler Shroud

Made some progress on the oil cooler mounting today,
I designed the shroud in Sketchup, converted into DXF file and imported into my CAD program Cut2D.
From here, I can generate G-Code to run on my converted CNC Mini Mill.

Sketchup is free and a great tool for quickly modelling up ideas easily.
It has some limitations with drawing exchange, but 3rd party converters are available to support DXF and STL conversion to other modelling software.








I convert the lines in Sketch-up to Poly-lines and export as a DXF file, then open up in Vetric Cut2D Program.

Here you can see the tool path and a 3D representation of the finished part.
Due to the size of my mini mill, the part needs to be flipped during milling to cut the other half of the component.

Cut2D outputs the tool paths as G-Code.
G- Code is the language the machine controller uses to tell the servos on the mill how far to move the mill axis.
The code is very simple commands specified in X, Y or Z axis reference relative to a home or Zero position.
i.e, a command of; g0 x100y50z25 will move the tool position to 100mm along the x axis, 50mm along the y axis, and 25mm up on the z axis in 1 move, (vector), straight line to that point in space.



The part pictured is the upper shroud part.

First half complete, before flipping to run the program again.

When milling sheet or any thin materials that may flex during cutting, I put some MDF timber on the mill slide as a slave sheet, so I can cut through the part without damaging the slide, but still supporting the component.

Ready to cut the mirror half of the upper shroud part.












Finished Part before bending the tabs on the end for the side deflector components.
The holes in the tabs are for rivets.
The other holes are for mounting the cooler and cooler inlet, outlet clearance.










Front view after bending the tabs on the upper and lower parts with side deflectors riveted in.










View from rear with a Mocal 16 row Oil cooler sitting in place.











Mounted in place on the chassis.
Final positioning will be done once the body is in place to line up with the radiator inlet opening.
Height of the cooler can be adjusted with spacers between the lower chassis mount and chassis or Oil Cooler, to fine tune the height.

Next part to make is the tabs on the chassis outrigger to secure the top of the shroud.

Sunday, September 15, 2013

Oil Cooler

Here's some pics of my oil cooler efforts,
While the engines an LS3, its fitted with an LS1 front sump.
The oil cooler aux ports are located above the filter.
Improved Racing make an oil cooler adapter to fit the front sump when using Holden accessories.


Improved Racing make this oil cooler adapter block for the LS1 Front Sump, Part Number
IR-EGM-1007.

Comes with 2 additionl 1/8"npt accessory ports for oil temp or pressure switches.






The -8AN Black Braided Hoses flow up over the steering rack and into a Mocal Oil Cooler Thermostat.

The thermostat cycles the oil back to the filter block when the oil temp is below engine temp requirements and opens to allow flow to Oil cooler when temp reaches 82 deg Celsius, (180F)





The oil cooler thermostat is fitted on the LH Suspension chassis frame.
Mocal Part Number A0T2 -8AN.

Exiting the thermostat is 1/2" aluminium tubing shaped to fit the chassis.






The oil cooler feed tube converts to a Black Braided Flex Hose and Black anodized Aeroflow -8AN fittings to a Mocal 16 Row oil cooler.

The alloy tube is bent to clearance around the side of the radiator.







The Oil Cooler Return line exits to the drivers side  of the chassis and converts back to alloy hard line and parallel with the brake tube sharing chassis mounts back across to the passenger side mounted thermostat.







Oil Cooler mounting in progress.

Still need to make insulators for the brake and oil cooler hard lines where they are chassis mounted.








This is the underside of the oil cooler with my Home made CNC mounting bracket.

The louvres are so debris doesn't get trapped between the oil cooler rear and the chassis.

Next step is to make up the upper Oil Cooler Mount and shroud.












Saturday, September 14, 2013

Brake Lines

Pretty much finished running the brake and fuel lines,
I started off running 3/16 stainless steel, but changed my mind to steel coated lines, the colour is much nicer and looks better against the chassis. The steel lines are far easier to bend, fit and flare.
I bought a K-Tool flaring tool, and had a few goes at routing the lines till I settled on the final position.
I was also a bit worried about the proposed CR rear brake hose location, probably would have been fine, but the flex hose needs to be deformed a bit and tied away from its natural set position to avoid touching the rim, so I changed the location of the hose end for better clearance.

This is the Front LH Brake Hard Line coming across from the RH Front Brake Line 3 way.

The line exits at the side frame for the suspension arms where it connects to the flexible hose.

In this pic you can see another one of my tube mounts, the lower 1/2" hole is for my Oil Cooler return line.





The Front LH Brake Flexible hose fitted to the chassis side wall.











The Flex Hose has a bow in it to allow enough length to cope with lock to lock steering.











Front LH Caliper banjo connection.
Brake hoses made by BrakeQuip in Pakenham, see Lindsey the owner for good support and quality components.


Rear Brake line travels along the drivers side chassis rail along side my enclosed battery cable.





The chassis clamps are my own design milled from 6061 Aluminium with a 4" radius to suit the chassis.
Tumbled in ceramic to polish and debur before being clear anodized for a Titanium look, then fitted to Rivnuts inserted into the chassis,

The black insulators are fitted to all brake and fuel lines lathed up from plastic rod.

Both tubes sneak between the body floor and chassis rail.






























Brake tube travels along the upper rear control arm mount to a 3 way on the rear of the chassis.

The Caliper flex line exits one of the 3 way ports eliminating the provided chassis mount.








The set on the flex hose clears the suspension arms and spring / shock assembly.












Flex hose fitted to the Rear AP Racing Caliper.












3 way fitted on the rear upper control arm mount.
Drilled and tapped a stud into the mount, then fitted 3 way and flanged nut.

The line then continues across the chassis to the LH rear caliper.






Another 3 way fitted on the LH rear control arm mount, 1 port plugged, the other port used for the Caliper Flex Line.