Welcome to my Cobra Replica build blog.
Please contact me if you would like to know more detail as i progress."CR3514@live.com.au"

Friday, October 2, 2015

Body On

After putting some rubber insulation tape on the chassis to soak up any vibrations with the body, we lowered the body on with the use of some tie downs (adjustable for getting the right angle) and the car hoist.
Had to remove the oil cooler in the process to get the body in the right spot to clear everything.

3mm Rubber adhesive tape attached to the frame where the body touches.

Along the sides, around the trunk, and the frame area over the rear suspension.

Also had to remove headers, and shift lever to fit the body down on to the chassis.

The wheel jacks, (great fathers day present :)) make it so easy to move the chassis around within the confines of my shed.

Sitting on the ground.
Initially, the rear of the car was sitting 50 mm too high at the lowest suspension settings.
The springs were the suggested 12" specification,
I had 10" springs spare from when I found the front springs were too long, so in this pic you can see the car at correct ride height with the 10" springs fitted in the rear.

The result of this is that when the car is lifted and the suspension fully extends, the spring drops off the top locator by about 25 mm

There is 2 solutions to this;
Get a 2" shorter shock (17" to 15")  with a 1" shorter spring (9") which is same as the front setup.

I know this works because I pulled off one of the fronts and put it in the back.....perfect.

or the much cheaper option of installing helper springs.

Helper springs have very little spring rate, and come in a variety of lengths.
The springs and seats I have ordered are about 4lbs rate and 2" long.
These fit between the spring and the spring perch and take up the gap when the suspension is fully extended, but compress up when any load is applied.

I'll post some pics when I fit them.

Fitted up the front and rear indicators and marked up the headlight centers.
The Indicators are an Amber LED unit.

The air filters clear the bonnet opening, but I want to fit my inlet tray under them when I finish it which will raise the filters another 16 mm and I suspect the rear will hit the bonnet, so a little fiberglass adjustment will be needed.

Rear tail lights fitted.
I'm using LEDs for the tail lights, the upper is an Amber indicator and White reversing LED all in one combined unit.

The lower is a Red Brake, Red Tail light LED combination all in the one unit.
I may have to change the lens to the original red to meet ADR requirements as I don't think the "E" marked clear lens has the correct marks required for brake lenses.

Pic of the engine bay,
The left hand header fits with good clearance all round.

The drivers side header just touches the steering column outlet on the body.
I need to decide if I ding the number 8 cylinder pipe in a few millimeters to get clearance, cut it and reshape it, or take a bit off the body.
See what I can live with.

Clearance around the header was a good educated guess seeing as I built them with the body off.

After I cut all the holes for Lights, Side Pipes, Roll Bar, Quick Jack mounts, Side Lights, Steering Column, etc,  I'll remove the body again for cleanup and painting underneath before final fitting.